Both cables: thermistor cable and heating cartridge were too short. In order to fit everything on my Ender 3 v2, I had to go through a couple of small modifications. Metal will shrink and a couple of firm punches with a hammer and centre punch will push the heating element out. Freeze it with a can of compressed air or put it to the freezer. If the heating element is stuck, don’t heat it up. Depending on how clean your hotend is, you may resort to elbow grease to push the heating element out. You will find a grub screw at keeping the heating element inside the block and the screw preventing thermistor from slipping out. To remove the stock hotend, unscrew the shroud and undo 2 screws holding it in place. Here is a hotend and some lingo in case you are not sure what’s what. With these, chances of giving myself a nasty illness is reduced and all I have to worry about is if my prints are food safe.
#Reviews of element 3d v2 upgrade
I’m a responisble 3D printer owner (whatever that means) so I would advise you to spend a little more and upgrade both the thermistor and heating element to make sure they don’t pose a fire & cancer hazards. It’s the same group of gases (C8) responsible for cancer at DuPont Teflon factory case. PTFE goes through pyrolysis in temps in excess of 250℃ and sublimates into fluorocarbon which is proven toxic. The default heating element may be sufficient to raise the temperature a little bit, but the thermistor is coated with PTFE – the same stuff that is used to make the Bowden tubes. Now that I have the hot end and the working temperature in mind, there is another thing to consider. Banggood was great and refunded my order. It all boiled down to a nice all-metal hotend for Ender 3 v2 from BigTreeTech from Amazon, as the one ordered from Banggood was swallowed by HermesUK and I never received it. You could argue that both printers use the same hotend, but that’s not exactly a recipe for success. Shopping around, I quickly discovered that there are options for the original Ender 3 printers, but not for the new machine. It’s time to switch my Ender 3 v2 to all metal hotend. My Ender 3 v2 caps at 260℃ and I need the temperatures in excess of 280℃ to print Onyx nylon rolls. I’ve upgraded my Ender 3 v2 for one reason: I wanted to try very expensive nylon from work (£150 per 800cc spool) and see what would be the quality of parts made on inexpensive printer vs £15000 MarkForged MK2 machines we use at work.